ISTANBUL - THE TIMELESS CITY
"There, God and human, nature and art are together, they have created
such a perfect place that it is valuable to see." Lamartine’s famous
poetic line reveals his love for Istanbul, describing the embracing of two
continents, with one arm reaching out to Asia and the other to Europe.
Istanbul, once known as the capital of capital cities, has many unique
features. It is the only city in the world to straddle two continents, and the
only one to have been a capital during two consecutive empires - Christian and
Islamic. Once capital of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul still remains the
commercial, historical and cultural pulse of Turkey, and its beauty lies in its
ability to embrace its contradictions. Ancient and modern, religious and
secular, Asia and Europe, mystical and earthly all co-exist here.
Its variety is one of Istanbul’s greatest attractions: The ancient mosques,
palaces, museums and bazaars reflect its diverse history. The thriving shopping
area of Taksim buzzes with life and entertainment. And the serene beauty of the
Bosphorus, Princes Islands and parks bring a touch of peace to the otherwise
chaotic metropolis.
The Bosphorus: A
stay in İstanbul is not complete without a traditional and unforgettable
boat excursion up the Bosphorus, that winding strait that separates Europe and
Asia. Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand splendor
and simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yalı (shore-front wooden
villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant compounds
neighbor small fishing villages. The best way to see the Bosphorus is to board
one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag along the shores. You embark at
Eminönü and stop alternately on the Asian and European sides of the
strait. The round-trip excursion, very reasonably priced, takes about six hours.
If you wish a private voyage, there are agencies that specialize in organizing
day or night mini-cruises.
During
the journey you pass the magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace; farther along
rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of the Yıldız Palace. On
the coastal edge of the parks stands the Çırağan Palace,
refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdülaziz, and now restored as a grand hotel.
For 300 meters along the Bosphorus shore its ornate marble facades reflect the
swiftly moving water. At Ortaköy, the next stop, artists gather every
Sunday to exhibit their works in a streetside gallery. The variety of people
creates a lively scene. Sample a tasty morsel from one of the street vendors. In
Ortaköy, there is a church, a mosque and a synagogue that have existed side
by side for hundreds of years - a tribute to Turkish tolerance at the grass
roots level. Overshadowing İstanbul's traditional architecture is one of
the world's largest suspension bridges, the Bosphorus Bridge, linking Europe and
Asia.
The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side.
Behind the palace rises Çamlıca Hill, the highest point in İstanbul.
You can also drive here to admire a magnificent panorama of İstanbul as
well as the beautiful landscaped gardens. On the opposite shore, the wooden
Ottoman villas of Arnavutköy create a contrast with the luxurious modern
apartments of neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers farther along stand the
fortresses of Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı facing each other
across the straits like sentries guarding the city. The Göksu Palace,
sometimes known as Kücüksü Palace graces the Asian shore next to
the Anadolu Hisarı. The second link between the two continents, the Fatih
Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past these two fortresses.
From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama
of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park
bursts with color when its tulips bloom in the spring. On the Asian shore is
Kanlıca, a fishing village that is now a favored suburb for wealthy İstanbulites.
Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its shores to sample its famous
yogurt. Shortly after Kanlıca and Çubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (İbrahim
Paşa Woods), a popular retreat. In the cafes and restaurants there you can
enjoy the delightful scenery and clear, fresh air. Back on the European side, at
Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at their moorings. The coastal road bustles
with taverns and fish restaurants from Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sarıyer
and Büyükdere. Sarıyer has one of the largest fish markets in
İstanbul and is also famous for its delicious varieties of milk puddings
and börek (pastries). On past Sarıyer, the narrow strait widens and
opens into the Black Sea.
Beyoğlu
and Taksim: Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district with
European-influenced architecture, from a century before. Europe’s second
oldest subway, Tunel was built by the French in 1875, must be also one of the
shortest – offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel is the
Galata district, whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols of Istanbul, and the
top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city. From the Tunel area to Taksim square is one of the city’s focal points for
shopping, entertainment and urban promenading: Istiklal Cadesi is a fine example
of the contrasts and compositions of Istanbul; fashion shops, bookshops,
cinemas, markets, restaurants and even hand-carts selling trinkets and simit
(sesame bread snack) ensure that the street is packed throughout the day until
late into the night. The old tramcars re-entered into service, which shuttle up
and down this fascinating street, and otherwise the street is entirely
pedestrianised. There are old embassy buildings, Galatasaray High School, the
colourful ambience of Balik Pazari (Fish Bazaar) and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji
(Flower Passage). Also on this street is the oldest church in the area, St
Mary’s Draperis dating back to 1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine,
demolished and then rebuilt in 1913.
Sultanahmet: Many places of tourist interest are concentrated in
Sultanahmet, heart of the Imperial Centre of the Ottoman Empire. The most
important places in this area, all of which are described in detail in the
“Places of Interest” section, are Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofia, Sultan Ahmet
Camii (the Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Kapali Carsi (Covered Market),
Yerebatan Sarnici and the Museum of Islamic Art.
In addition to this wonderful selection of historical and architectural
sites, Sultanahmet also has a large concentration of carpet and souvenir shops,
hotels and guesthouses, cafes, bars and restaurants, and travel agents.
Üsküdar:
Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of Üsküdar, on the Asian
side of the Bosphorus, is one of the most attractive suburbs. Religiously
conservative in its background, it has a tranquil atmosphere and some fine
examples of imperial and domestic architecture. The Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry pier, on a high
platform with a huge covered porch in front, often occupied by older local men
watching life around them. Opposite this is Yeni Valide Camii, built in 1710,
and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb rather like a giant birdcage. The Cinili
Mosque takes its name from the beautiful tiles which decorate the interior, and
was built in 1640.
